Scale Fuselage Body,
Tail Boom Cover and Windshield
G10 Fiberglass plate Vertical and Horizontal Stabilizers
4 G10 CNC Machined
1 G10 CNC Machined
Strut Support Base Plate
2 G10 CNC Machined Strut Angle Fixture
2 Aluminum Skids
2 Rubber Bands
1 Foam Boom
4 Nylon LG Bolts
8 O-ring Skid Retainers
The MIA MD500E - Blade 120SR Kit and Installation is very similar to
the MIA MD500E for the Blade mSR. We have included photos of the mSR
install along with illustrations for the 120SR for additional
Note the slots are perforated with an overlap
to allow better grip on to the struts.
Do not completely make the slots smooth, this
is reason why we don't CNC machine the slots
clean, in the first place.
Note: The O-rings
attachment of the skids to the struts provide, not only a fastener
that allows easy install and removal of skids, but also a
natural grip for slippery floors. No worry about landing sideways
on the skids as the way this is shown and done still provides
positive landing support. Look carefully to make sure that the
skids rest parallel with the strut "t" end strut support when
fastening them with the O-rings.
Very similar to the mSR, but the boom for the 120SR
is done in 2 sections, part of the fuselage with an additional
section, separate, to ease installation
Simply follow similar install as for the mSR
except you will need to join the boom to the fuselage with invisible
Scotch brand tape, if you desire.
wraps from the front around the 120SR, very
similar as for the mSR, the rear of the fuselage under belly can be
held with invisible Scotch brand tape.
DO NOT GLUE THE FUSELAGE HALVES SO YOU CAN
REMOVE IT EASILY IN CASE YOU NEED TO SERVICE IT LATER ON.
The MIA 500E molded tail section for the Blade mSR is very similar,
also, but for the 120SR it is made from G10 thin, but firm,
fiberglass plate, this needs to be assembled with CA glue, all the
parts are tongue and groove.
The vertical fin is press fit over the tail
motor cage. You will need to disconnect the tail motor and pass the
connector wires through the vertical fin then reconnect around it,
when the fin is in place.
Very similar toe the mSR, no disassembly of the E-FLite Blade
120SR tail boom is required,
only the stock LG. The whole 120SR heli frame and boom fits
inside the fuselage through the front end and top of the
scale body, with the window removed, and the window gets
attached as the final step. It is very simple.
Battery Installation and CG Adjustment
Sale bodies, in general, regardless of make or
manufacturer, depending on
the particular shape, will require repositioning of the CG
(Center of Gravity) .
This is simply done by relocating the battery forward or
rearward on the
belly of the helicopter so that the helicopter balances
directly beneath the rotor head center (Ideally but is not
The battery simply rests in it original 120SR battery
cage. In order to get the proper Center of Gravity (CG)
with the full scale fuselage, it is required that the
battery be installed from the front of battery cage. A 25
Cent USA coin or similar weight, may be required at the
nose to balance the helicopter CG directly under the rotor
mast. This also makes the 120SR fly more in scale.
Various CG Balancing
options can be incorporated:
a) Use an additional 25 cent US coin taped to the
base of the cabin to provide the extra leverage
to balance the helicopter directly below the rotor head.
When we think of adding weight, it is natural to think
that the heli may not be flyable or that flight times will
suffer. Frankly, there is a tradeoff in doing scale or
custom setups, but on the Blade 120 SR, this is not as
critical as it is on the smaller helicopters, this is
partially because the motor on the 120 can handle the
extra punch of a larger capacity and heavier single Lipol.
In fact some people in RC Groups' threads are flying the
Blade 120SRs with option b), so the extra weight of the 2
cells is not a problem.
b) An option to using a 25 cent coin as balancing
ballast, is to use (2) 500mah E-Flite batteries in
PARALLEL to double the current, while maintaining same
operating voltage of 3.7 volts (not in series, caution! as
this doubles the voltage and this is not what you want!).
When placing two batteries in parallel, make sure they are
of the same brand and capacity ( do not mix brands or
different capacities), this provides greater power punch
to the helicopter but also allows for a more balanced
helicopter as mentioned above. When doing this setup you
will need to use a small "Y" cable and place one of the
batteries as far as possible near the front of the
fuselage. Double sided tape works.
c) Another Option. Instead of using 2 batteries in
parallel, a larger capacity battery, say 800mah or 1000,
single cell 3.7V can be used. However we have not found
one of the dimensions to fit the stock battery cage, we
can offer it, so we are leaving this option up to the user
Caution! when working with
Li-Pol batteries, be sure to read all instructions
from the product OEM, and when making custom connections,
make sure you know what you are doing. If in doubt
please seek qualified personnel to assist you.
Blade 120 SR with the MIA Photon skids
When using the MIA MD500E body on the Blade 120 SR with
the MIA Photon
skids, this adds already the required balancing
weight at the nose, hence the lights and battery for them
are all self-contained at the tips of the skids and the skids shifted
forward to balance
with the stock battery placed all the way at the nose of
Note that none of the above nor all
my videos of the Blade 120SR retrofitted with a MIA MD500E
scale body, is done with additional "bling",
aluminum parts like rotor heads, frames, swashplate, or
even BL motors. USE
STOCK parts, however if you do have a BL motor setup, even
people do not have the right information
This may seem a bit of a long explanation, but I wanted to
cover all the
basis so there is no misconception.
One of the things that
is misleading is when people in forums start to talk
without having the
correct information or understanding how things work. Some
talk without even
having the product at hand or seen it in real life.
Flight Characteristics Pod and Boom vs.
Full Scale Body
One cannot expect the same flight characteristics, when
going from a light
pod and boom setup, as the stock product, to a custom full
scale body. The scale bodies are supposed to make the
helicopter fly more in
scale. What does this mean? is that the helicopter will
fly a little
obviously due to the full fuselage instead of a simple pod
and boom, and by
this, the helicopter may fly a little bit slower (in
Most people who are die hard on scale, will sacrifice a bit of pod and boom
more in scale performance when they put a scale body
on their helis. It is an acceptable trade-off.
Please watch my videos carefully and see if this is what you are
The last thing we would want is our customers
to buy something
on the misconception that it will do something we do not
claim it will do.
All my videos are true to the descriptions that accompany them
and what I am
Granted I don't spend, near, the time I use to, in
tweaking the model
setups, due to busy work schedules, I think my videos give
a good idea of
what can be reasonably expected if you follow
a similar setup.
Having said all, this, let me add that it is also very
people generalize by saying that helicopter bodies have air friction that
affect them. Depends on the body design, shape.
Consider this, the shape of the MD500E, in particular, is
actually like and
egg, very smooth from the sides, top and bottom, and so
understanding of how airfoils
work, one can see that the body has very little friction
from all sides as compared to more square bodies like a
Bell Huey. Now
stabilizing control surfaces, in general, provide some
friction, technical term is "drag",
but it is not as
critical as some make it sound.
Once again, Scale
helicopters are not done to fly them like pod and boom
hot rod helis. Logically with an open mind and
a bit of understanding of flight dynamics,
one can form and
I wrote this to answer a customer's enquiry and reference
that some people were making, in disfavor of scale bodies,
in an RC forum, but also to keep it on our site,
for other readers and customers to consider the pros and cons with any
Flying with the Scale Fuselage
We recommend you start off with the transmitter set to "
low rates" and or the swashplate up links set to the inner
arms. This provides the smoothest and more in scale
control, You can adjust these to your comfort and skill
Do not make abrupt stick control inputs so that the flybar
on the 120SR is maintained level, once again if you want
to fly your 120SR as a hot rod do not install a scale body
and keep it Pod and boom.
I'll be happy to answer any additional questions via our
E-mail. If this has been informative please give me